Red Light Therapy for Hyperpigmentation, Melasma and Dark Spots
Red light therapy for hyperpigmentation has early, encouraging evidence. Red light at 630 nm did not darken skin in the study that tested it, and small pilot studies and lab work suggest red and near-infrared light can reduce melanin production. Below: which wavelengths darken skin, which mask mode to choose, melasma, acne marks, sun spots, darker skin, sunscreen, vitamin C and tranexamic acid, and the study protocols.
Key takeaways
- In volunteers with skin types III and IV, 630 nm red light "did not induce hyperpigmentation", while 415 nm violet light caused darkening that lasted up to 3 months. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res, 2014
- Of seven LED wavelengths tested on human pigment cells, only 830 nm and 850 nm significantly reduced melanin. Acta Derm Venereol, 2012
- In a pilot of 7 women with stubborn melasma, the MASI severity score on the near-infrared side fell from 11.4 to 4.7 by week 12. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 2018
- For skin that marks easily, the red mode on the Kivorla mask (665, 850 and 1064 nm) is the setting to use, because it contains no blue light.
- The AAD recommends a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide and SPF 30 or higher for melasma, because visible light can make it worse. AAD
Does red light therapy help hyperpigmentation?
It may, and the evidence is early. Red and near-infrared light have reduced melanin production in lab studies and small pilots, and red light did not trigger new pigment in a controlled exposure study.
Hyperpigmentation means patches with extra melanin, made by pigment cells using an enzyme called tyrosinase. A 2023 review of visible light and pigment cells describes red light as "linked to depigmentation". J Clin Med, 2023 The American Academy of Dermatology lists "lightening of dark spots" among the benefits reported for red light. AAD, 2024
The studies so far are small, so treat red light as support for a dermatologist-led routine, as our guide to red light therapy for the face also advises.
Which wavelengths darken skin, and which do not?
Short blue and violet wavelengths can switch on pigment production. At the doses studied for skin, red and near-infrared wavelengths have left pigment unchanged or reduced it.
Blue light acts on a light sensor in pigment cells called opsin 3, which triggers melanin production, according to a 2020 review. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020
| Wavelength | What the research found | Type of evidence |
|---|---|---|
| 415 nm violet | Darkening in skin types III and IV, lasting up to 3 months | Controlled exposures in volunteers |
| 450 nm blue | Hyperpigmentation at 60 J/cm² | Reported in a 2023 review |
| 457 nm blue | A pigment signalling hormone rose 1.31-fold at 50 J/cm² | Human skin cells |
| 585 to 590 nm amber | Melanin index fell in 10 melasma patients | Pilot with no control group |
| 630 nm red | No new pigment at 10 to 150 J/cm² | Controlled exposures in volunteers |
| 660 nm red | Lower tyrosinase and MITF; less UVB pigment in mice | Cells and mice |
| 830 and 850 nm near-infrared | Less melanin and tyrosinase | Human pigment cells |
| 940 nm near-infrared | Melasma score fell from 11.4 to 4.7 | 7-person split-face pilot |
Sources: Pigment Cell Melanoma Res, 2014; J Clin Med, 2023; Front Physiol, 2025; Cells, 2022; Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2017; Acta Derm Venereol, 2012; J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 2018.
Which mask mode should you use if your skin marks easily?
Use the red mode, which combines 665 nm red with 850 nm and 1064 nm near-infrared and contains no blue. The blue mode pairs 460 nm blue with 850 nm and is meant for breakouts.
The reason is the blue-light pigment research. Beyond the 415 nm finding above, in a study of 42 women, blue light on the back caused pigment that rose with the dose. At 20 J/cm² it had not fully faded after 2 weeks. Skin with melasma and skin without it responded alike. Dermatology Times, 2023
No human pigmentation study has tested 460 nm itself. The closest data come from a 2025 cell study using a 457 nm LED with a spread of ±20 nm, which covers 460 nm. In cells from skin type II and IV donors, 50 J/cm² raised a pigment signalling hormone 1.31-fold. Lower doses of 10 to 15 J/cm² caused no significant change. Front Physiol, 2025 The authors note that about 10 J/cm² of blue light has produced visible pigment in some skin types. So 460 nm sits in the band linked to pigment darkening, and the red mode avoids that question.
The red mode also carries wavelengths with pigment-lowering lab data: 850 nm, and 665 nm, beside the 660 nm tested in cells and mice. If you have acne as well as marks and want the blue mode, keep sessions short at 50% brightness, use it earlier in the day, and stop if patches darken. Our article on blue light therapy gives the same advice.
Does red light therapy help melasma?
Early, small studies point that way, mainly with near-infrared and amber light. Melasma is stubborn, and the AAD says even standard treatments usually take 3 to 12 months.
The most detailed pilot treated 7 women with treatment-resistant dermal melasma. Both sides of the face had microdermabrasion, and one randomly chosen side also had 940 nm LED light at 13.5 J/cm², weekly for 8 weeks. The MASI score on the light side fell from 11.4 to 4.7 at week 12. In at least 3 women the response held to 12 months. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 2018
An amber pilot of 10 patients reported lower severity and melanin scores after 8 weekly sessions, covered in our article on yellow light therapy. The AAD notes that "a few studies" found adding laser or light to melasma treatment can improve results. AAD
The colour of the light matters with melasma. A 2023 review reports that blue light switched on pigment production in 22 melasma patients, in the patches and in the skin around them. J Clin Med, 2023
Can red light therapy fade dark spots from acne?
Red light is the cautious choice for post-acne marks, which dermatologists call post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Blue light is better kept for active breakouts.
The 2023 review reports that 633 nm red light at 96 J/cm² significantly decreased melanin in acne patients. J Clin Med, 2023 The first step is to stop new marks forming. The AAD advises finding and treating the cause, such as acne or an irritating product. Spots a few shades darker than your skin "usually fade within 6 to 12 months" once the cause has stopped. AAD, 2025
Does red light therapy work on sun spots and age spots?
See red light as support for overall skin quality here, not a spot remover. Sun spots, also called solar lentigines, are usually managed with daily sunscreen plus the topicals and clinic treatments a dermatologist can offer.
Cleveland Clinic says hyperpigmentation treatment can take "a few months or a year".
| Type | Main triggers | What dermatologists use first | Where light research stands |
|---|---|---|---|
| Melasma | UV and visible light; most common in skin types III and IV | Tinted sunscreen, hydroquinone, triple cream, tranexamic acid | Small pilots with near-infrared and amber |
| Post-acne marks | Acne and other skin inflammation | Treating the cause, azelaic acid, retinoids, vitamin C | Review data on 633 nm in acne patients |
| Sun spots | Sun exposure | Sunscreen, retinoids, vitamin C, clinic procedures | Lab data on melanin; few human studies |
Sources: DermNet; AAD; AAD, 2025; Cleveland Clinic.
Is red light therapy safe for darker skin with hyperpigmentation?
It calls for more care, because darker skin pigments more readily in response to visible light. The AAD advises people with darker skin tones to talk with a dermatologist before using an at-home device.
The Fitzpatrick scale runs from type I, very fair skin that always burns, to type VI, the deepest skin tones. In one study summarised in a 2020 review, a source of 98.3% visible light caused pigment only in skin types IV to VI, not in type II. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020 The AAD notes that darker skin tones "are more sensitive to visible light". AAD, 2024
Dose matters too. In a safety study of very long 633 nm sessions, skin of colour tolerated up to 320 J/cm², about 61 minutes per session. At that dose, 33.3% had temporary darkening that cleared within 3 months. J Biophotonics, 2020 The mask's longest session delivers at most about 92.7 J/cm² in total output, a fraction of that. It is still a good reason to start low.
- Types III and IV: the most melasma-prone types. Use the red mode only and start at 50% brightness.
- Types V and VI: our precautions advise against using the panel on these skin types. See a dermatologist before using any light device.
Which sunscreen should you wear with red light therapy for melasma?
Wear a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide, SPF 30 or higher, every day. Red light gives no UV protection, and the UV filters in current sunscreens do not protect against visible light.
That second point comes from a study of 72 people. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2019 DermNet suggests SPF50+ with iron oxides. DermNet
- Melasma on hydroquinone: in 61 patients, a sunscreen covering UV and visible light gave 15% more improvement in MASI at 8 weeks than a UV-only sunscreen. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020
- Tinted vs untinted: in a 5-month trial of 41 women with melasma, both sunscreens lowered MASI. Only the tinted one made the patches and the surrounding skin measurably more even. Polena et al., 2025
Put sunscreen on after a light session, not before, because it blocks light. See wearing a red light mask with makeup or sunscreen.
Can you combine red light with vitamin C, tranexamic acid or hydroquinone?
Yes, with the light first on clean skin and the products applied afterwards. Prescription treatments stay under your dermatologist's direction.
- Vitamin C: the AAD lists it among gentler melasma options and dark-spot ingredients. Apply it straight after the session, as covered in red light before or after skincare.
- Tranexamic acid: the AAD describes it as a cream or pill for difficult melasma. Tell your dermatologist about any history of blood clots. A cream goes on after the light.
- Hydroquinone and triple cream: DermNet reports that triple combination cream clears or improves melasma in 60 to 80%. Keep to your prescribed routine and tell your dermatologist you are using light.
- Azelaic acid, glycolic acid and retinoids: also on the AAD's dark-spot list. Avoid products that burn or sting.
- Medicines: our precautions say not to use the devices with photosensitising medication. Ask your pharmacist if you are unsure about yours.
Can phone screens cause hyperpigmentation?
A 2022 systematic review found that blue light from screens was "not identified as a hazard" for pigmentation or melasma, with low confidence. A light therapy device is a different case, because it sits much closer to the skin and is far brighter.
The review included 9 studies: 6 in the lab and 3 in people. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2022
What protocol did the pigmentation studies use?
The human pilots used modest doses of about 13.5 to 20 J/cm², once a week, for 8 weeks. They measured results at 8 to 12 weeks.
| Study | Wavelength | Dose per session | Sessions per week | Weeks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Melasma pilot, 7 women | 940 nm, pulsed LED | 13.5 J/cm² (90 mW/cm² for 5 minutes) | 1 | 8 |
| Melasma pilot, 10 patients | 585 to 590 nm amber | 20 J/cm² at 20 mW/cm² | 1 | 8 |
| Pigment cells | 830 nm | 1 to 20 J/cm² | Lab | Lab |
| Volunteers, types III and IV | 630 nm | 10 to 150 J/cm² at 55 mW/cm² | Single exposures | No darkening |
Take photos in the same light at weeks 0, 4 and 8, and judge at 8 weeks, as our guide on how long red light therapy takes to work suggests. Stop and see a dermatologist if you notice:
- New darker patches in or around the treated area.
- Redness that does not settle after a session.
- Stinging or burning during or after a session.
How do you use Kivorla devices if your skin is prone to pigment?
For the face, use the 4-Wavelength Red Light Therapy Mask in the red mode at low brightness. The 9-Spectrum Red Light Therapy Panel reaches the jaw, neck, chest and back.
The red mode runs 72 laser diodes at 665 nm, 72 at 850 nm and 20 at 1064 nm. Output is 50 to 103 mW/cm², with brightness settings of 50, 70 and 90% and a timer of 5, 10 or 15 minutes. At 50 mW/cm², the bottom of that range, 5 minutes gives about 15 J/cm², close to the 13.5 to 20 J/cm² used in the pilots.
- Week 1: Red mode, 50% brightness, 5-minute timer, on clean skin with eyes closed.
- Build up: move to 10 minutes if your skin stays even. The manual allows 10 minutes up to 4 times a week at high brightness, or 15 minutes up to 3 times a week, with a maximum of 20 minutes a day.
- After the session: topicals, then tinted sunscreen, then makeup.
The panel has red at 630, 660 and 670 nm, near-infrared at 810, 830, 850 and 1060 nm, 590 nm amber and 480 nm blue, each dimmable from 1 to 100%. For pigment-prone skin, turn the 480 nm channel to its lowest setting and start the others at low intensity. Set the timer from 1 minute upwards and step back from 6 to 12 inches, the suggested distance for a broad area such as the face or back. Suggested use is 10 to 15 minutes per area, with at least 6 hours between 30-minute sessions. Goggles and a controller are included.
Standard shipping to the US, UK and Germany is free. Read the precautions before ordering: they advise against using the panel on Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI. Under our return and refund policy, returns are accepted within 30 days: an unopened device with its seals intact is refunded less a 10% restocking fee, and an opened device that is undamaged and complete is refunded less 20%.
Kivorla devices are general wellness devices, not medical devices, and are not intended to treat melasma or any skin condition. If you have melasma, darker skin or marks that tan easily, see a dermatologist before using any light device, and keep to any treatment they have prescribed.