Woman shaping a clay bowl while wearing the black Kivorla red light therapy mask

Red Light Therapy for Melasma: What the Research on Light and Pigment Shows

Red light therapy for melasma rests on small studies, and the clearest finding is about colour: in a direct comparison, red light did not darken skin while violet-blue light did. A split-face pilot using near-infrared LEDs also saw melasma scores fall over 12 weeks. Below: the studies, why colour matters, heat, pregnancy, darker skin, sunscreen, clinic lasers and safe settings for skin that marks easily.

Key takeaways

  • In a split-face pilot of 7 women, the side treated with 940 nm near-infrared LED light went from a melasma score (MASI) of 11.4 to 4.7 by week 12. Barolet, 2018
  • In healthy volunteers, 630 nm red light "did not induce hyperpigmentation", while 415 nm violet-blue light did. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020
  • In 61 people using hydroquinone, a sunscreen that also blocked visible light gave 15% more MASI improvement at 8 weeks than a UV-only sunscreen. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020
  • Cleveland Clinic reports that 15% to 50% of pregnant women develop melasma. Cleveland Clinic
  • The American Academy of Dermatology says melasma treatment usually takes 3 to 12 months to show results. AAD

What does the research on red light therapy for melasma show?

It shows early, small signals rather than firm answers: one blinded split-face pilot and a few clinic case series reported lighter patches after LED light. Dermatologists treat light as an add-on to creams and sun protection, not a first step.

The best-designed study is a Canadian split-face pilot in 7 women with dermal melasma that creams or peels had not cleared. Barolet, 2018 Both sides had microdermabrasion; only one side then had 940 nm near-infrared LED light, once a week for 8 weeks.

  • Blinded rating: doctors scored less pigment on the light side.
  • MASI score: the light side fell from 11.4 to 4.7 by week 12.
  • Durability: the response held at 12 months in at least 3 of the women.

In South Africa, 60 women with skin types V and VI had 36 LED sessions over about 9 months, and both groups showed "significant improvement of melasma". Mpofana, 2018 A 2023 review describes the light as 633 nm red with 830 nm near-infrared. That study had no control group.

So does red light therapy help melasma? The evidence supports it as a possible add-on alongside a dermatologist's creams and sun protection. The AAD notes that a few studies found "adding a laser or light treatment can improve results". AAD Our red light therapy for hyperpigmentation guide covers other dark marks.

Study Who Light Dose or minutes Schedule Result
Barolet, 2018 7 women, dermal melasma 940 nm LED, pulsed 13.5 J/cm², 5 minutes Once a week, 8 weeks MASI 11.4 to 4.7 on the light side by week 12
Mpofana, 2018 60 women, skin types V and VI 633 + 830 nm LED Not given in the abstract 36 sessions over about 9 months Improvement reported; no control group
Acne study, via He 2023 Acne patients, not melasma 633 nm red LED 96 J/cm², 20 minutes Twice a week, 4 weeks Melanin fell
Duteil, via 2020 review Healthy volunteers 630 nm red and 415 nm violet-blue 55 and 30 mW/cm² Single exposures Red did not darken skin; violet-blue did
Woman studying a botanical print while wearing the black Kivorla red light therapy mask

The 940 nm pilot used 5-minute sessions once a week for 8 weeks. The darkening in these studies came from blue and violet light.

Why does blue light darken melasma-prone skin when red light does not?

Pigment cells carry a light sensor called opsin 3 that responds to blue light and switches on melanin production. Red light at 630 nm did not set off that darkening in the study that compared the two colours.

A 2020 review reports that switching off opsin 3 removed the blue-light effect, which was linked to darkening in skin types III and above. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020 Other work points the same way:

  • Dose matters: in 42 women, blue light on the back caused dose-related darkening; at 20 J/cm² the change was minimal but had not fully faded after 2 weeks. Dermatology Times, 2023
  • Cell work: 457 nm blue light raised a pigment-signalling hormone 1.31-fold at 50 J/cm² in human skin cells, while moderate doses made no significant change. Barolet, 2025
  • Melasma skin: blue light switched on pigment in and around the patches of 22 people with melasma. He, 2023

Our mask's blue mode uses 460 nm, and the panel has a 480 nm channel. Both sit in the blue band, so for melasma-prone skin use the mask's red mode and turn the panel's 480 nm channel to its lowest. The blue mode is designed for breakouts; our blue light therapy guide explains where it fits.

Can red light therapy make melasma darker?

Red light did not darken skin in the study that compared colours, but irritated skin can leave darker marks, and melasma reacts to irritation. Start low and short, keep a photo record, and stop at the first sign of new darkening.

The AAD warns that skincare that burns or stings can darken melasma, and recommends gentle, fragrance-free products. AAD self-care

  • Start: the mask's red mode at 50% brightness for 5 minutes in the first week.
  • Normal: a light pink flush that fades within the hour. Nothing should last into the next day.
  • Stop: new or darker patches, redness that does not settle, stinging or burning.
  • Next step: let the skin settle, take a photo and show it to a dermatologist.

Our guide to red light therapy mask side effects has more.

Does heat play a part in melasma flares?

Heat is a reported aggravating factor: in 1,001 people with melasma, longer exposure to cooking fires or workplace heat went with more severe patches Sarkar, 2019. That is an association, not proof of cause, but it is a good reason to keep light sessions short and skin cool.

Cleveland Clinic lists ultraviolet and infrared radiation from sunlight among melasma triggers. Cleveland Clinic Mayo Clinic notes that the heat from intense pulsed light (IPL) in clinics can cause darker marks after treatment. Mayo Clinic, 2019

In practice:

  • Timing: wait until your skin has cooled after a hot shower, a sauna or exercise.
  • Length: keep sessions short, especially in the first weeks.
  • Stop signs: stop the session if your skin feels hot, stings or burns.

Can you use red light for melasma during pregnancy or while breastfeeding?

Not with our devices: pregnancy is on our do-not-use list from start to finish, and the panel manual also lists breastfeeding and preparing for pregnancy. Melasma that starts in pregnancy often fades within about three months after the birth.

Pregnancy is a well-known melasma trigger, and Cleveland Clinic reports that 15% to 50% of pregnant women develop it. Cleveland Clinic

Dark patches in pregnancy are a question for your midwife or a dermatologist. After the birth, resume light sessions only when your doctor or midwife agrees and the breastfeeding question is settled. Our article on red light therapy while pregnant has more.

Is red light suitable for melasma on darker skin types?

Darker skin reacts more readily to visible light, so talk to a dermatologist before using any home light device. Our panel is not for Fitzpatrick skin types V or VI.

In a study of 22 volunteers, visible light caused darker, longer-lasting pigment in skin types IV to VI, while type II skin showed none. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020 The AAD says "Visible light can worsen melasma, especially for darker skin tones". AAD self-care

The AAD's red light page describes darker skin as "more sensitive to visible light" and advises speaking to a dermatologist before using an at-home device. AAD, 2024

The South African studies on types V and VI were clinic research, not a reason to use our panel on those skin types. For the mask, follow your dermatologist's advice.

Why do dermatologists pair melasma care with tinted sunscreen?

Melasma reacts to visible light as well as UV, and tinted sunscreens with iron oxides add protection against visible light. In trials, that improved results.

  • With hydroquinone: in 61 people, a UV plus visible light sunscreen with iron oxide gave 15% more MASI improvement at 8 weeks than a UV-only one. Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2020
  • Over a summer: in 41 women over 5 months, both sunscreens lowered melasma scores, but only the tinted one made patches blend more evenly with the surrounding skin. Polena, 2025

The AAD advises a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide and SPF 30 or higher, reapplied every two hours, cloudy days included. AAD self-care DermNet suggests SPF 50+ with iron oxides all year. DermNet

Red light gives no UV protection. Run the light session on clean, bare skin, then apply skincare, then sunscreen last. Our guide to using a red light mask with makeup or sunscreen gives the full order.

How does home LED light differ from the lasers and IPL clinics use for melasma?

Clinic lasers and IPL can lighten melasma in some people, but patches often return and some methods can leave new dark marks. Home LED light is a different approach, and its melasma evidence is still limited to small pilots.

A 2026 meta-analysis of 31 studies and 2,801 patients compared Q-switched laser plus IPL with either alone. Zhang, 2026

  • Clinical response: 92.0% with the combination against 77.4% with one method.
  • Recurrence: 8.5% against 17.8%, from 4 studies of low certainty.

Mayo Clinic reports that melasma often relapses within three months after IPL. Mayo Clinic, 2019 DermNet says lasers and light "carry a risk of worsening melasma" and need expert hands. DermNet

First-line care is creams such as hydroquinone, tretinoin or azelaic acid, with tranexamic acid when these are not enough. AAD A 2024 meta-analysis of 22 trials with 1,280 patients found tranexamic acid lowered melasma scores, most of all in tablet form. J Dermatolog Treat, 2024 Tell your dermatologist about any history of blood clots before starting it.

Which melasma triggers are also on the do-not-use list?

Several known melasma triggers overlap with our precautions: pregnancy, thyroid disease, anti-seizure medicines and medicines that raise sun sensitivity. If any of these apply, settle them with your doctor before thinking about a light device.

The AAD lists these melasma causes. AAD causes

  • Thyroid disease: a thyroid condition or thyroid medication is on our do-not-use list.
  • Anti-seizure medicines: epilepsy is on our do-not-use list.
  • Sun-sensitising medicines: retinoids such as tretinoin, some antibiotics and some blood pressure medicines.

Our precautions rule out use with photosensitising medication, so if you take any medicine, including a melasma cream, check with your pharmacist or doctor before using the device.

How long before you can judge a change in melasma?

Give any routine at least 8 to 12 weeks, judged on photos taken at weeks 0, 4, 8 and 12 in the same light. The AAD says melasma treatments usually take 3 to 12 months to show results.

The split-face pilot gave 8 weekly sessions and measured its main result at week 12. Barolet, 2018 Depth also matters.

  • Epidermal melasma: pigment near the surface, which DermNet says responds well to treatment.
  • Dermal melasma: deeper pigment, which responds poorly.
  • Mixed: responds partially. DermNet

Melasma can return with summer sun. A dermatologist can confirm that the patches are melasma rather than sun spots or marks left by spots and rashes. Any patch that changes, bleeds or grows needs a doctor. Our red light therapy for sun damage guide covers sun spots.

How do you use a Kivorla mask or panel for melasma-prone skin?

Use the mask's red mode at 50% brightness for 5 minutes in the first week, on clean, bare skin with your eyes closed, and leave the blue mode aside. For patches on the neck, the panel works side-on or from behind with its 480 nm channel at its lowest, for skin types I to IV only.

Light What the pigment research shows Kivorla setting for melasma-prone skin
Blue: 460 nm (mask), 480 nm (panel) Blue and violet light darkened skin in types III and above Skip the blue mode; panel 480 nm at its lowest
Amber: 590 nm (panel) Reduced melanin production in cell work Panel: dimmed
Red: 630 to 670 nm 630 nm did not darken skin; 633 nm lowered melanin in acne patients Mask red mode (665 nm); panel 630, 660 and 670 nm
Near-infrared: 810 to 1064 nm Studied in the small melasma pilots Mask red mode (850 and 1064 nm); panel 810, 830, 850 and 1060 nm

The 4-Wavelength Red Light Therapy Mask is a cordless, full-face silicone shell with an eye opening and no diodes over the eyes.

  • Week 1: red mode, 50% brightness, 5-minute timer, eyes closed. Never look into the light.
  • Building up: if your skin stays calm, stay within the manual: 10-minute sessions up to 4 times a week at high brightness, or 15-minute sessions up to 3 times a week, never more than 20 minutes a day.
  • Melasma-prone skin: stay at the lower end of those limits.
  • Controls: brightness at 50, 70 or 90% and timer at 5, 10 or 15 minutes, by voice or the handheld controller.

The 9-Spectrum Red Light Therapy Panel reaches areas beyond the mask's shell, such as the neck. It is not for Fitzpatrick skin types V or VI.

  • Channels: 480 nm at its lowest; dim the others well below full, since each wavelength adjusts from 1 to 100%.
  • Position: side-on or from behind at neck level, never aimed straight at the face; goggles on, eyes closed.
  • Distance and time: about 12 inches; start with a short timer (it sets from 1 minute) and work towards 10 to 15 minutes per area if your skin stays calm.
  • Spacing: leave at least 6 hours between 30-minute sessions.

Read the precautions before ordering. Standard shipping to the US, UK and Germany is free. Under our return and refund policy, returns are accepted within 30 days: an unopened device with its seals intact is refunded less a 10% restocking fee, and an opened device that is undamaged and complete is refunded less 20%.

Kivorla devices are general wellness devices, not medical devices, and are not intended to treat melasma. See a dermatologist to confirm the diagnosis, keep any prescribed creams and sun protection, and do not use either device during pregnancy.

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